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Interviews

Interview with Arnaud Montet, IFF- Tradition and Innovation in the world of fragrances

A conversation with Arnaud Montet, Vice President Global Human & Consumer Insights, Scent, IFF

“Our proprietary consumer research tells us that for 80% of consumers around the world, fragrance has indeed become an essential product in their life”.

FEBRUARY 2024

EC:

Fragrances have become essential products in our lives.
What trend are you observing here?

Arnaud Montet:

Our proprietary consumer research tells us that for 80% of consumers around the world, fragrance has indeed become an essential product in their life. What has changed is the expectations they have for fragrance: they don’t just want it to smell good, they want it packed with new benefits, which will cater to personal wellness. That is a new dimension of fine fragrances, as it combines luxury (which is typically a-functional) with a function (as it provides wellness benefits).

EC:

IFF recently introduced their China Scent Exploration Program. What motivated you to take this initiative and what’s exciting about the Chinese fragrance market?

Arnaud Montet:

IFF introduced the China Scent Exploration to tap into the unique opportunities offered by the Chinese scent market. The Chinese market is particularly exciting due to its vast diversity, evolving consumer preferences, and the abundant opportunities for innovative scent solutions, across all scent categories (from fine fragrances to home and beauty care). By combining artificial intelligence with deep cultural insights, we aim to create fragrances that resonate deeply with local consumers and ensure long-term success. This holistic approach allows us to develop targeted scents that are authentic and appealing.

EC:

What studies did you carry out and what were your particular focuses?

Arnaud Montet:

In the four pillars of the China Scent Exploration, we conducted various studies to capture a comprehensive picture of this unique scent market. Our particular focus was on historical and cultural analysis, ingredient studies, qualitative social media listening, and a quantitative survey of 10,000 Chinese consumers from different regions and age groups. These analyses and data feed into our current database and AI analysis tools, aiming to identify the cross-category evolutions and influences significant for the Chinese market.

EC:

And what technologies were used?

Arnaud Montet:

Aside from extensive desk research on history and ingredients, we applied our proprietary Choice Model analysis for the quantitative survey. This capability, developed over 15 years and based on millions of product usage data points, provides consumer segmentation based on human values, guiding targeted product design. Additionally, our AI tools, designed by in-house data scientists working closely with perfumers, translate consumer expectations into olfactive features and design principles, empowering our perfumers to place the consumer at the center of their creations.

EC:
What insights did you gain and what opportunities arise from this?

Arnaud Montet:

The insights gained from the program are numerous and varied. One key insight is that almost every consumer behavior can find its roots in the rich Chinese fragrance history. For instance, we have observed significant trickle-down and trickle-up effects across different scent categories in China. Consumers are increasingly demanding more expressive and complex sensorial experiences with perfume dimensions for consumer fragrance products. Historically, while the use of fine fragrance was not as common, the application of fragrance in personal and home care products, such as hair oils, skin care products, and fabric fragrances, was very prevalent. These insights highlight the potential for innovative scent solutions that cater to both traditional and modern preferences, opening numerous opportunities for creating fragrances that are both culturally resonant and forward-thinking.

EC:

Last year IFF opened a Creative Center in Shanghai, the most leading-edge facility among the company’s 50 creative centers around the world. What are the benefits of this and how do you see the further development of the Chinese market?

Arnaud Montet:

IFF is not a newcomer on the Chinese market, as we opened our first center in Shanghai in 1981. However, this new creative center combines all three IFF business units (Scent, Nourish, Biosciences) into one site, allowing for multi-sensory and expertise exchange. On the Scent side, our Fine Perfumery Art Studio takes its inspiration from our Grasse Atelier du Parfumeur and is a co-creation space, meant to inspire our artists of perfumery. Our labs include state-of-the art testing booths across all scent categories, allowing our creative teams to test our scent solutions ‘in situ’. While the Chinese market has slowed down over the last few years, we’re convinced it will pick up soon enough: we’ll be ready.

EC:

Thank you for the conversation

Arnaud Montet heads a team of more than 70 people worldwide, including 20 researchers, engineers, data scientists and PhDs who have been working for more than 35 years on two main areas:

-Listening to consumers, monitoring their needs, expectations, desires and tastes.

-Connecting scent, science and emotions.

To achieve this, the group works hand in hand with perfumers to integrate cutting-edge technologies such as digital, neuroscience and artificial intelligence into their palette.

Euro Cosmetics

Euro Cosmetics

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