As demand for mineral sunscreens and high-performance color cosmetics grows, formulators face challenges in achieving high powder loadings while maintaining low viscosity, refined sensory aesthetics, and long-term stability. Mineral UV filters and high pigment levels can increase viscosity, cause whitening, and lead to heavy color shift and possible oil bleeding.
To support these formulation needs, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc. (SESA: A U.S. subsidiary of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd., Japan) recently introduced their advanced line of silicone based dispersants featuring distinct molecular structures and functional benefits at the SCC 79th Annual Scientific Meeting & Showcase (December 16–17 / Sheraton New York Times Square). The globally compliant dispersants on display included KP-578 and KF-6115 and key formulations. Both demonstrated the ability to support significantly higher loadings of powder pigments and Mineral UV filters in color cosmetics and sunscreens, while still delivering optimal sensory, stability, and performance benefits.
KF-6115: INCI: Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
This Polyglycerin-modified silicone dispersant greatly improves the dispersion of powder in various types of oils because of the function of its branched silicone and alkyl structures. By promoting consistent and uniform dispersion of powders, KF-6115 can greatly improve the stability and transparency of the final preparation with maximum UV absorber loading with minimum viscosity.
SSL– 315 SPF 50 Sheer Zinc Mineral Sunscreen Milk
This globally compliant, non-whitening, shake type formulation contains a high level of nano-fine ZnO using KF-6115 as the dispersant. This alkyl modified branched type silicone promotes consistent and uniform dispersions of powders which ultimately improves the stability and transparency of the final formula. To add to the silky soft feel, we are using our KSG-45 elastomer gel that adds powdery feel and soft-focus effect. The result is a formula that rubs in clear without the whitening effect on dark skin tones with soft, velvet lightweight feel.
KP-578: INCI: Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer
This 100% active, silicone/acrylate polymer is designed to be an effective pigment dispersant for color cosmetics−allowing formulators to mitigate streaks and separation in the formulation. Grafted hydrophilic groups are designed to interact with the hydrophilic groups on the pigment to facilitate the dispersion of pigments in the oil. Notably, it provides a very uniform dispersion with a higher load of pigments.
It features good dispersibility in a wide range of oils and is also effective at very low levels. The lower viscosity pigment paste is easier to work with for formulators to create more sheer formulas for a myriad of color cosmetic foundations and sunscreens.
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This is a high pigment load cream foundation blends-in effortlessly with a smooth, luxurious and non-draggy after feel. KP-578 acts as the primary pigment dispersant, enabling uniform dispersion and excellent in-package stability. The formulation achieves 20% pigment loading, delivering high coverage without visible streaking or a large shift in mass to the skin tone. The result is a foundation that maintains consistent appearance throughout its shelf life.
SESA SCC / SILICONE DISPERSANT CONCLUSION:
A pioneer in the field of silicones for personal care products, SESA’s innovative formulation demonstrations at the SCC 79th Annual Scientific Meeting & Showcase proved to remain shelf stable to maintain their efficacy and appearance−especially in mineral sunscreens. Formulators were impressed by how they felt and performed at the marque cosmetics event, requesting samples of both dispersants and the featured formulations.
According to SESA’s Cosmetics Application Laboratory (CAL: Paramus, NJ) Senior Chemist Aga Montes, “Consumer brands have a myriad of color foundations for different skin tones and they want them to look uniformly stable over time, with no color streaks in the pigment dispersion. These key SESA dispersants allow formulators to load up with higher pigments so they can have more intense colors and more consistent coverage. Also, in mineral sunscreens you can use higher content of mineral ingredients to achieve higher SPF.”
SESA’s 14,000 sq. ft., state-of-the-art Cosmetics Application Laboratory is strategically located only 20 miles from Manhattan and Newark International Airport−which allows SESA to be closer to many of its strategic customers based in New York and New Jersey.
