Uli Osterwalder

19 articles

Columns · January 28, 2026

SPF-Testing methods – Scientific and statistical basis

Uli OsterwalderPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH At the end of 2024 two alternative SPF methods have been published, ISO 23675:2024 an in vitro method and ISO 23698:2024 a non-invasive in vivo/in vitro hybrid method [1,2]. Over the years, I have often written about these methods. Just last year the two columns appeared “Two additions to the SPF toolbox!” and “Which SPF-Testing Method to use?” [3-6]. Just recently, in September 2025, the scientific and statistical basis was published […]

Euro Cosmetics

Columns

Which SPF test method to use?

Uli OsterwalderPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH Over the past two years, I have described the SPF test method and its alternatives several times. In my last column, “Two additions to the SPF toolbox!” in January 2025, two new alternative methods were presented [1-3]. Particularly in Europe, I am seeing some confusion about what exactly this means. The framework for SPF testing is currently uncertain. There is pressure to use the new in vitro/non-invasive methods. Various factors need […]

Euro Cosmetics · April 5, 2025

Columns

Two Additions to the SPF Toolbox!

ULI OSTERWALDERPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH In late 2024, two long-awaited alternative SPF test methods were finally published: ISO 23675:2024 and ISO 23698:2024 [1]. What does this mean? How soon will these methods be adopted? Will their SPF always match the in vivo gold standard ISO 24444? And which of the three available official ISO methods will apply in case of discrepancies between them? This column will provide some answers. 1. Overview SPF-Methods Here is a brief […]

Euro Cosmetics · January 27, 2025

Columns

Sunlight, the Neuro-Cosmetic for free!

ULI OSTERWALDERPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH Sunlight has a stronger neuro-effect than any of the active ingredient in cosmetics. How can we best tame this freely available, most potent neuro-cosmetic? The answer is: with sunscreen. 1. Neurocosmetics Trends, Actives and Effects Neuro cosmetics cater to the growing demand for products that not only improve skin appearance but also enhance overall well-being by targeting the emotional and neurological factors that can impact skin health. The Financial Times recently […]

Euro Cosmetics · December 2, 2024

Columns

Alternative SPF Methods on the Doorsteps

ULI OSTERWALDERPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH In the first two Sweep-the-Sun columns in summer 2022, we looked at the revised ISO 24444:2019 Gold standard and at the alternative methods [1, 2]. So it’s time to take another look at the progress made. The Consortium ALT-SPF conducted the largest interlaboratory-test to date about a year ago, but the reports on the test methods involved have not yet been published [3]. Pro Memoria, the following methods were characterized against […]

Euro Cosmetics · September 2, 2024

Uli Osterwalder

Good intentions with unintended consequences…

ULI OSTERWALDERPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH In this column we will discuss how good intentions can lead to unintended consequences. To set the stage, ChatGPT (OpenAI, 3.5) helped me find examples of well-intended actions with unintended consequences. Here are three of them that may also be relevant in terms of sunscreen applications: Let’s explore three examples of good intentions of sunscreen manufacturers, usually heavily influenced by their marketing department, that are currently unfolding before our eyes. 1. […]

Euro Cosmetics · May 17, 2024

Uli Osterwalder

Plasticizer in children’s urine – are we about to lose another UV-filter?

Uli OsterwalderPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH Background A key challenge in formulating sunscreens is deciding on the UV filter platform, as recently described by Hanay and Osterwalder [1] and also by Sohn et al [2]. Apart from the US, where the number of available UV filters is very limited, in Europe and the rest of the world there still seems to be a variety of options, despite intensive scrutiny over the last 25 years. For example, the […]

Euro Cosmetics · March 21, 2024

Uli Osterwalder

Imagine if … we were serious about preventing skin cancer!

Uli OsterwalderPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH The 16th Sun Protection Conference in London 2023 provided ideas on how this could happen. Indeed, the phrase “Imagine if…” was the title of the final talk of this year’s two-day event, given by Prof. Paul Matts, Vice President of Research and Development at P&G in the UK and new head of the organizing committee. Paul Matts emphasized that his comments and thoughts in his presentation are his own and do […]

Euro Cosmetics · December 7, 2023

Uli Osterwalder

TAKE HOME MESSAGES…….from

ULI OSTERWALDERPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH The Florida SCC Sunscreen Symposium is a traditional gathering of the sunscreen manufacturing and supplier industry. It is held biannually in mid-September. Also, Covid-19 could not stop it, since its peak fell right in between the 2019 and 2021 edition. As a positive remainder of the pandemic, there are still some video sessions, especially with speakers from the FDA, who have limited travelling budgets. I attended the sunscreen symposium for the […]

Euro Cosmetics · October 10, 2023

Columns

Reef-safe sunscreen: environmentalconcern or marketing hype?

ULI OSTERWALDERPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH In this Sweep the Sun column we discuss the popular sunscreen claims about reef safety Since the bans of some UV filters on some islands or US states, “reef-safe” has become a worldwide claim (Figure 1). Let’s take a closer look at the background of this claim.A few months ago, we already discussed “Transparency in Cosmetics”. 1 The basis for that was a webinar by the IFSCC. This column is somewhat […]

Euro Cosmetics · September 10, 2023

Uli Osterwalder

AI to predict Sunscreen Performance?

ULI OSTERWALDERPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH The first Sunscreen Simulator was developed and made available on the Internet by Ciba Specialty Chemicals in 2002. In the meantime, it has been improved by BASF 2011, and since 2017 we also have the DSM Sunscreen Optimizer on the Internet. Does this mean that we have an artificial intelligence (AI) solution to predict sunscreen performance? Although there is now quite a hype about AI, I would not call it that. […]

Euro Cosmetics · June 5, 2023

Uli Osterwalder

Do we need more transparency in Sun Protection?

Uli OsterwalderPrincipal and Owner of Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH There is a trend towards more transparency in cosmetics, e.g. by sharing EXTRA ingredient list information not required by law, especially by Big Beauty companies. P&G Expands Transparency Commitment to include Fragrance ingredients across Product Portfolio. Unilever announces new ingredient transparency initiative for its home and beauty & personal care brands, and L’OREAL received the first transparency Grand Prix for its code of ethics.IFSCC, the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic […]

Euro Cosmetics · April 25, 2023